A Vintage rebirth

Meanwhile, modern wineries in Georgia have mastered advanced modern-day winemaking technology, and can produce wines up to the standards of Europe.

Chateau Mukhrani, for example, was rebuilt in 2002, and has been producing new grapes since 2007. Founder Ivane Mukhranbatoni, a 19th-century Georgian prince, made the first bottle of sparkling wine with Georgian grapes.

The chateau in the village of Saguramo in Mtskheta has been going through a major construction to restore the prince's castle. The work includes adding an underground cellar and a theater, enhancing what will be a new wine resort for tourists.

Schuchmann Winery, a German company, makes 70 percent of its wines with contemporary European methods, and 30 percent in traditional qvevri.

The winery produces light-bodied, easy-drinking European white and red wines that taste fresh and fruity. When it comes to the traditional method, grapes are fermented for six months in the qvevri, and then stored in oak for up to one year, to produce a pure, concentrated flavor.

Traditional wines are sold at Twins Old Cellar in Kakheti.

Saperavi is the most common black grape in Georgia, while a favorite white-wine grape is Mtsvane. The country has 500 grape varieties; more than 40 are used to produce wine.

At Pheasant's Tears, a winery built in a 300-year-old house in the town of Sighnaghi, we taste some really good wines: Chinuri Twilight, a white wine; Rkatsiteli, a smoky amber wine tasting of honey and roses; and Shavkapito, a full-bodied red wine made with late-harvested grape.

Established in 1962 and privatized in 1992, Tblivino produces the largest number of wines in Georgia. The company exports to 28 countries, including China. In 2011, it produced 2.5 million bottles of wine, 20 percent of which was exported to China. We were surprised to find our guide at Tblivino speaking fluent Chinese.

JSC Sarajishvill is the first distillery to brew brandy with traditional technology in Georgia. Its history dates back to 1884. The company's brandy won gold medals at international expos in Paris and Brussels. Today, people can still taste 100-year-old brandy in the company's cellar.

The food of Georgia is simple, natural and delicious. One place to recommend is Kopala restaurant, which offers a good view and good food.

We sample very tasty grilled pork, lamb, braised chicken and braised mushrooms. Pkhali is a wonderful mixture of mashed spinach, red pepper, carrot and walnut.

Chinese people would be surprised to find khinkali, looking exactly like baozi with pork stuffing, and almost as delicious. But in fact, it is a traditional Georgian dish.

It is interesting for me to meet Shota Bitadze, owner of a Chinese teashop in the pedestrian street of Tbilisi.

Although he doesn't speak much Chinese, we learn he studied tea-making in Fujian, and uses Chinese teas grown in Georgia. Georgia imported and grew Chinese tea as early as 1847. That's why in hotels and restaurants here, you can find both black tea and green tea.

At Pheasant's Tears, we watch an impressive folk singing demonstration, revealing how Georgian young people show their love. At another local restaurant, we see a breathtaking knife dance.

The revival of wine traditions breathes new life into other aspects of Georgian culture.

Luarsab Togonidze, our tamada, i.e., toastmaster, at the restaurant Azarphesha, shows us how he is adapting traditional Georgian clothes for men and women into beautiful modern fashions.

Toasting is a tradition in Georgia, and Togonidze raises his glass with poetic language, to friendship, parents, peace, women and children.

More than 80 percent of Georgia's population identify themselves as Orthodox Christians. When we visit Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of Twelve Apostles, we savor the beauty and devotion in the collected voices of the men's choir.

Our hotel rooms in Tbilisi overlook a giant statue of the "Mother of Georgia" on a mountain in the center of the city. The statue raises a wine cup in her left hand, and a sword in her right. The country would drink with its friends, but it is also ready to fight its enemies. That kind of bravery and friendship is the national spirit of Georgia.

Contact the writer at yejun@chinadaily.com.cn.