Ancient fishing tradition reels in catch of the day

At 2 pm, three horses pull an iron capstan, a piece of nautical equipment used to apply force to ropes and cables, to drag the net out of the ice with fresh fish.

Hundreds of local residents and tourists gather around the net to buy the fish. The fish are always popular before Spring Festival.

A wriggling fish is proudly displayed during a traditional winter fishing event on the frozen Chagan Lake, Jilin province, on Thursday. Zhao Bin / for China Daily

"I've been looking forward to eating the fresh fish for a long time. The taste is better than any frozen seafood," said Huang Lei, who traveled all the way from the provincial capital of Changchun.

"Although the way we fish is old-fashioned, it does no harm to the lake and the modern machines will cause pollution," said Zhang.

The traditional method has seen some changes over hundreds of years.

"The net used to be made of cotton thread with small mesh, but now it is made of polythene with a bigger mesh, so we do not catch small fish, which protects fishery resources," said Zhang.

Folklore experts speak highly of Chagan Lake's winter fishing.

"It is the only culture of fishing and hunting remaining in the world that also protects the culture and memories of the people," said Cao Baoming, head of Jilin Folk Literature and Art Association.

The traditional custom has enriched not only cultural heritage but also local people.

For the past 11 years the local government has held a winter fishing festival to attract tourists. According to the tourism bureau of Chagan Lake Development Zone in Qianguo county, 3.99 million tourists visited the lake and spent 3 billion yuan ($480 million) this year.

Almost every home in the village near the lake has opened a fish restaurant.

"Life is easier now. We can afford flour and rice. I even bought a car, which I couldn't have imagined before," said Hu Renzhong, who runs a restaurant.

According to Hu, the best way to cook fish is by stewing it.

"The more time you spend stewing, the more delicious the fish is. You'll be hooked after you enjoy our delicious fish," Hu said proudly.

Contact the writers at liuce@chinadaily.com.cn and hanjunhong@chinadaily.com.cn